monday 28th feb.

Yesterday went to Oamaru for the day, via the backpacker bus thank goodness i have been cycling could not cope with that type of travel for long. Anyway oamaru, was a major port handling exports of grain and wool, the old limestone wharf buildings and warehouses still remain. Like many places in nz it began life as a rowdy, drinking wild west sort of place, became very upmarket as money poured in. in this case with some grand stone neo classical architecture, plus a vary large limestone catholic basilica, then fell upon hard times, (and the temperance movement). Now it attracts tourists, on Sunday there was a classic motorbike rally.
I have been staying for the last two nights in the Dunedin yha quite an imposing building, with a gabled roof balconies and a roof terrace. it was designed by Basil Hooper who helped construct the Dunedin cathedral, and used to be a private hospital (had an operating theatre).
My plane to Auckland leaves this afternoon, and then through to Hong Kong. i have loved New Zealand. the cycling has been great, not to many problems with traffic and i have met some great people. The libraries are second to none, even the smallest place has a better stocked library than inverness. Even large villages have swimming pools, many attached to the primary school (kirkhill if in nz would certainly have one), the campsites are normally good and have kitchens attached. The home baking is excellent (my favorite the dark chocolate and boysenberry slab i got at the Dunedin farmers market), and the people are friendly and can not do enough to help you. The countryside is beautiful, and the weather temperamental. I have so many more places I could cycle. have cycled over 2200 miles (never made the 3000), so hopefully Keith and I will return in the future.
Thank you to everybody in New Zealand.

sat. 26th feb.

have just spent two days on the otargo peninsular. camping in an official campsite - had to get there by bus. Visited the aquarium, did you know that octopus can get through cracks the size of their eye?. There are a lot of deep canyons off the coast. Then in afternoon went for a walk, or as they call it in nz tramping. Walked over to the other side of the peninsular, around a lagoon, up a hill to a sea lookout point - then 40Min's down through sand dunes to sandfly bay (in other words a lot further than i had intended). However by the time i reached the bay it was after 6pm and penguins were returning home- this time to a sandy shore they made their way right up into the sand dunes. there were also a family of sea lions. Returned up beach by easier and more formal route only to meet anne-marie and the Irishman (whose name i can not spell) coming down laden with their cooking gear - including stove made from old coca cola tin, after that they were in for a bit of illicit wild camping!(now very much an item).(added 28th feb -now not an item met a dejected Irishman in the wholefood shop stocking up on supplies before heading up to Alexandria to pick apples with no Ann-marie) I looked pitiful at the car park and got a lift back to my campsite and hot shower.
Yesterday went up to the nature reserve at the top of the peninsular home of an albatross colony - saw some big birds! have now returned to Dunedin, and visited the farmers market. Dunedin is a very vibrant city the university had recently restarted for the year and the place feels very alive. However i also have sandfly bites all down my legs - did not notice them at the time but walking down through dunes with bare legs to a place called sandfly bay? - only myself to blame.

wed. 23rd

the news on the earthquake just gets worse, the whole country is devastated.not sure what will happen in Christchurch as more aftershocks are still expected. Anyway am south in Dunedin, very fortunately.Just been swimming in the outdoor heated saltwater baths.

tues. 22nd feb.

Raining all day, have spent day sorting out bike, it is going home ahead of me, this makes life much simpler for getting home. Will have to visit otago peninsular by bus, but will be saved the challenge of cycling up Baldwin street, the worlds steepest street.
Not a good day there has been a very large earthquake in Christchurch today, with fatalities and much damage - felt it down here in Dunedin things fell off the table - a kind of experience for me but very unpleasant for those whose homes have been damaged further north.

monday 21. feb.

Have spent the last 2 days camping at Kaka point, about 8 kms from nugget head - still in the catlins. yesterday was sea lion day, in fact i nearly stood on a sea lion on my way down to the beach - not a good idea- sea lions are large can be aggressive and definitely (understandably) do not like to be disturbed when taking a nap. I beat a hasty retreat. walked to nugget head lighthouse and looked down from a safe distance a sea lions in the bay below, also saw fur seals.
today stated heading east to Dunedin, but it has been raining very hard, so I hardly stopped, thus arrived a day early. am staying in yha. have to organise the packing up of my bike so will be here for a couple of days and will then go to the otago peninsular for a couple of days before my flight next Monday.
Dunedin is the Edinburgh of the south so a fitting place to fly back from, i cycled down Princes street to get here, but will explore more tomorrow.

sat.

Yesterday visited cathedral caves, short walk to tidal beach through forest, did not explore caves much as did not want to disturb the penguins in the back. then through Papatowai visiting the "Gypsy caravan" sight of toys/mechanical devices/ gadgets, made from old electrical equipment and old shells driftwood. then on to Owaka were I camped - keep meeting people i have met before this time anne and nick who I had been on an evening walk on Stewart island with. today have had to make detour to Balclutha to get cash and food supplies. will now head back to nugget point for 2 night camping and exploring before making my way to Dunedin.

thursday 16th feb

on Tuesday left Stewart island cycled out of bluff with the spam works on my left and and agricultural nutrients factory to my right, however was shown a short cut east by wolfgang (Germans always have the best maps, his 6th time cycling in nz.) So through very quite agriculual land to Fortrose gateway to the catlins which I am now exploring. This Fortrose had about 4 houses and a cafe/visitor centre, however about 8 years ago a nz girl from the village visited black isle fortrose on her travels, and met then married a local farmer -always a connection.
68 miles to Curio bay were I have spent 2 fantastic nights camping. A very basic campsite, but you have a hard choice to choose a sight, on one side you face the sea lions and on the other the rare yellow eyed penguins. Anne-marie and I chose the latter, and spent 2 evenings watching them arrive home from the sea, make their way up the beach, greet each other with barking noise, and get pestered by seagulls. this also the sight of the petrified forest visible at low tide- awesome. (first met anne-marie in wanka cycling\walking comes from north carolina ran into her again at fortrose)
Yesterday cycled short distance to slope point most southerly in nz and had a picnic made all the better by the salad cillon from Ireland rustled up from the contents of his cycle panniers today short cycle, working way east after morning on beach.

monday 14th feb

restful day in oban cycled 10 miles exploring the limited road network,then went walking in the national park. It is like walking in a botanical garden of trees with the sound of the waves hitting the rocks and birdsong in the air- magical. There is a 10 day walk through the conservation area which only takes up a small section of the map of Stewart island the rest is wilderness.

sunday 13th. feb.

Yesterday cycled 88 miles all the way from Te Anau to Colac Bay on the south coast,wind behind me whizzing me up the hills.Blown around like the trees on reaching the coast. The fiordland mountains to the right Scottish border country to the left - deer farmers sheep, cows as nearing the south. Went past the clifden suspension bridge, and through Tuatapere - the sausage capital of NZ. Today cycled to Bluff, end of the line 50 miles some quite industrial (passed spam processing factory?) but Sunday so good day for that bit.
Anyway took ferry over to Stewart island for 2 nights very glad. main and only village called oban very west coast Scotland windy but palm trees. Most of the island is untouched native habitat have seen dolphins and will look for penguins.

friday 11th feb boat trip

Began with boat down lake Manapouri, nz's 2nd. deepest lake, tour guide said scenery like Scotland on steroids, do not disagree. Then approx. 22kms in coach to Doubtful sound - now in Fiordland a world heritage sight. it rains for 2 days out of 3, I got day 3,sunny. Granite hills, covered with temperate rain forest, with visible volcanic landslides on hills. I saw bottle nose dolphins, an albatross (no photo), the place were the green crested penguins nest (but wrong time of year), and fur seals. The fur seals are more closely related to sea lions than our grey seals, and were nearly hunted to extinction (for their fur hence the name), but are now protected.
on way back visited the Manapori hydro power station, the reason for the road from a lake edge to doubt full sound.Commenced in 1963 it produces enough power to supply south island's domestic consumption - but most is used by the aluminium smelting works near Bluff. Very like the entrance to the power station in strathfarrar, the gates open and the coach drives into the barrels of the earth to reach a large turbine floor.the whole set up is remote controlled from Twizel about 200 kms away.
Just been for walk by lake not used to this much inactivity in one day!

thursday 10th feb

yesterday left queenstown to cycle towards te anau did 7o miles and reached as far as mossburn. passed the home of the kingston flyer at the base of lake wakatipu - this steam train used to operate between invercargill and the then goldtown of kingston apparently reaching speeds of 60kms per hour! recently it did a little tourist run down the valley but sadly that ended in 2009 and steam train and carriage's just sit at the side of the road on the track gathering cobwebs. Passing through very scottish countryside, sheep being sheared and villages named things like Athol. night spent camping in best sight yet, on a farm with goats llamas (just sheared) chickens and a peacock. in the kitchen 2 old boys in their 80's on a fishing trip drinking home brew beer - they have 3 bottles every night then have their tea of stew (brought from home in daily portion packs), potatoes and carrots. also present, a few other fisherman plus a German couple conversation went thus first a discus ion on coronation street, then rugby, then fishing (brown trout not native to nz which led to rather a brutal talk about different ways of exterminating non nz species (the brown trout are responsible for the reduction/extinction of many original species). then and here i could really sport my knowledge trains the German obviously a train buff (he had photos of all the different types of German trains on hand to show round very odd.)
Today just cycled the 40 miles remaining to te anau, but cycling directly into a headwind so it has aged me a whole year. tomorrow as a result going on a scenic cruise down doubtful sound.

9 FEBRUARY

SOME PICS TO SEE.......

tuesday 8th feb.

yesterday cycled from wanaka to Cromwell, am now in central otago, and the climate is dry. cylce reminded me of spain arid hills and vineyards. Cromwell is a new town because old Cromwell was drowned in approx. 1988 to make way for a dam and hydroelectric developments, at the same time a lot of orchards in the area were also submerged. i did however pass fruit stalls on the side of the road, and have been glutting myself on peaches, nectarines, greengages, apricots and cherries. loads of apple and pear orchards as well. I camped at what was the old work camp built for the men building the dam, although a tourist camp sight it mainly houses the workers from the orchards and vineyards (thinning the vines at present), plus a couple of sheep shearers. Today cycled to queenstown , watched people bunjy jumping from a bridge on the way in, i have already had my share of adrenalin rush for the day by cycling through the Kawarau gorge, a narrow road with a drop on one side, with quarry lorries pulling extra loads of stones passing me , plus tourist buses with adverts for bunjy jumping on the back. Queenstown in much nicer than I expected the lake is scenic the yha has a prime position overlooking it and there are gardens etc around the lakeside. Town as expected has several macdonalds, k.F.C.,starbucks loads of alchol outlets and a kathmandu (resisted buying anything).

sunday6th feb

yesterday cycled over the hastt pass, what a relief to reach the other side and leave the west coast behind. Why SANDFLIES, if one stopt moving even for a second they attempted to eat me alive. Also west coast route very scenic , lovely people but also lots of campervans tourist coaches and rain. Spent night at Makarora and then through the hills to Wanaka today. This has been a spectacular ride because i cycled alongside the lake (very much the size of loch ness), with a rainbow dipping into the lake, and crossing the hills all the way , had to keep stopping to take photos, aloso wind behind me. Warm , sunny, scenic, passed lake Hawea and had carrot cake ginger beer and ice cream, (so did Helena) also a walk by the lake . Now in central southern area and have been to the new world supermarket to get lots of fresh salad things for tea.

friday 4th feb.

yesterday cycled past fox glacier, walked as far as the public are allowed to, wider but not as steep as franz josef, but there were lumps of ice in the river. Cycled on south but "ow the water", a delivery van stopped and offered to give me and my bike a lift on to hastt, but i resisted. Did however stay at the next available spot a motor lodge next to lake paringa, very nice spot in the morning , when dry -full of brown trout. today cycled on to hastt and am camping. Stopped and had a walk along the wild coast, very much like the east coast of Scotland, at ships bay - so named because: in 1855 a schooner set sail from Liverpool to Melbourne but was wrecked off the coast of Victoria (no loss of life), pieces of the wrecked vessel, however came assure at this cove and had thus drifted across the Tasman sea. Also stopped and had some whitebait cooked on a grill at a kind of takeaway van on the seafront this is the local speciality. lots of sandflies (nz midge like pests)

2nd feb.

have spent day on the Franz Josef Glacier. initially sheeting with rain this morning but the trip went ahead - better views of the waterfalls, then on the guided ice walk, you are taken past the public no go area, wade through streams , approach the ice ,put on your crampons and climb up the ice through blue ice tunnels and a lot more, it was stunning. plus the sun did come out. This glacier tumbles down the valley in the making, to disgorge into a river only a few meters above sea level, like a primitive form of the older glacial valleys in Scotland. Walk price included entry to the hot pools -very nice have just returned

tuesday 1st feb

i have actually met another u.k. lone female cyclist! Helena, who has just finishes her accountancy training, but no longer likes accountancy has another 2 weeks of her 2 month trip, she was staying in greymouth yha.Anyway have been leap frogging the same route since then - she is faster than me ,but is not carrying a tent (plus is a lot younger) so has to stay in hostels. both of us are staying at the franz joseph glacier yha tonight.
yesterday cycled from greymouth to Ross- am now traveling south down the west coast. Crossed over the Arahura river on a single lane bridge which also took the train track- 200 meters in distance. lucky no trains came!- goods only. Camped at Ross another old gold mining town now a very small village, then a 67 mile cycle to here tonight. Am staying in yha for 2 nights because have booked a glacier walk for tomorrow.

sunday 30th jan

crossed the lewis pass on Friday reaching a height of 905 meters, a cracker of a ride, just like Scotland. cycled 66 miles and reached springs junction, which comprised a petrol station/truck stop, motel and cafe, made use of the cafe, but had to cycle back 5 miles to the DOC free campground. Initially I had been wary of staying there by myself, but by the time I returned there were a couple of campervans. Mind I was abducted in the evening and taken to John and celests van to be forced to drink scotch whisky!
Next day sheeting with rain so just went the 30 miles to Reefton put up the tent again, out came the sun so things dried up. Reefton is the heart of the klondyke area and there are old gold mines all about. There is also one working mine, apparantly it looks a bit like a quarry the sludge and rubble is excavated out then roughly sorted, what appears to be valuable ore material is put on trains and taken to greymouth. I know this because 3 of the guys working there were staying in cabins on the campsite. The lads had a fresh skipjack tuna fish which they had been given and cut into steaks, they fried these (taking over the whole kitchen) then ate them with salad and new potatoes, now for the good bit they also fed me, the only draw back to this will be that I know i will never taste such good tuna again, it was absolutely delicious!
today I have cycled down to Greymouth following the railway line. I have passed old coalmines, and smelt coal burning in the air (coal is still mined in the area), and am staying in the YHA and using the washing machine.

thursday 27th jan

yesterday cycled a hilly 56 miles from kaikora to waiau, beautiful ride if hot, dipping in and out of valleys, and crossing "whales back saddle", passed mount lyford ski area, and collapsed in their cafe for a ginger beer, actually it was more like an expensive restaurant, but the lovely girl serving sent me upstairs to sit on the coach and admire the view , then i got given a bit of hare pie they did not appear to have any customers but she liked cycling! _ it really does pay to cycle alone
spent the night in waiau campsite with one other campervan, a nice spot. it used to be the workcamp in the 1950's for unemployed people who were sent to remove nassella grass an unwanted import from south America. This interloper has no nutritional value thus depleates the land value for sheep and cattle grazing , largely through the process of manual "grubbing it has now been removed.
There were to men staying there who were building a new health center. the young lad cooked a mammoth amount of bacon thus making himself bacon butties for his tea breakfast and lunch bait. The rather uncouth older man had a supply of tasty dishes in the fridge supplied by his wife she had even made him a weeks supply of lunch bait rolls - personally he did not look much of a catch so i am not sure why she bothered.
today cycled to hanmer springs have had my peddles changed as the barrings had disintegrated, been to the spa/thermal/swimming pool, and head up over the lewis pass tomorrow

tuesday

A bit of bother with my peddle so second day here to try to get it fixed the bearings have gone anyway the young lad could not do anything with it, so it is safe if annoying to ride so will carry on tomorrow. Spent day walking around kaikaoura peninsular (kai - eat, kaoura-crayfish) i have a small bit of fish for my tea, but the crayfish which look a bit like lobsters are out of my price range!. loads of seals basking on rocks and even in the car park at the point _signs warn you to keep a distance but a bit difficult for one car owner to do that! No sign of whales, there are sperm whales in the area but they dive to large depths for long spells so are difficult to see from the land. the blue whale migrates from the Antarctic along this route but it is the wrong time of year
Long conversation with the surfing dude checkout lad at the new world stores supermarket. i learnt that he came from north London but left home age 17 and has been traveling ever since.

monday 24th jan

Picton onsaturday was holding its yearly marine gala, so that evening we attended the free abba concert in the park- one suspects a tribute band but they were very good. next day left keith at the ferry sheeting with rain - absolutely pouring I retrace my path of 2 weeks ago as far as Blenheim, now I have only been cycling for 10 minutes when I am overtaken by a local Blenheim cyclist out on his regular Sunday morning ride, who insists on accompanying me I think due to the bad weather and the main road, then taking me home and giving me coffee and muffins - thank you David.
Weather clearing so carried on reached seddon (pouring) very depressed German cycling couple sitting in cafe having 2nd cup of coffee I asked them to keep an eye on my bike whilst I used the pay phone to book my nights accommodation _ the reply went along the lines of "who the ---- do you think is going to take your bike in this weather if it is like this tomorrow mine is going in the river"
Arrived at special cyclists hostel, remote ,peaceful clean jack russell dog ,hot shower. Only one other occupant Mark who had not been able to go mountain biking he told me I should lock my bike as he had 3 stolen, the hostel was 1.5 kms up an unsealed road then through a field and the bike was on the veranda plus sheeting rain. however he did have a bottle of wine which he shared with me and if you think I am slightly mad he was going walking up a river gorge today. thank you mark for the company.
Today no rain but Orkney style headwind, seals basking on the rocks along this coastal route Kaikoura mountain range on the other side. Camping tonight in Kaikoura the "whale watching capital on nz" very touristy will leave tomorrow.

sat 22nd jan.

Yesterday cycled from Nelson to picton, a lot of signs of bank damage from Tuesdays"s storms. Stayed at Havelock the green mussel capital of the world, bags of mussels being taken off boats on the wharf. Today have cycled by the scenic and therefore very hilly route back to picton keith takes the ferry back to north island tomorrow,we have cycled over one thousand miles. I will be heading south then making my way to the west coast. Sarah.

Well. it's been quite a trip and I could go on. Highlights for me were Kerikeri and the Waipu Forest area. i enjoyed arriving in Gisborne after cycling East Cape and the Art Deco architecture of Napier was very special. would like to travel on but have to return to UK now.
Keith

wed.

Well the shopkeepers of Takaka certainly had a good day yesterday. the torrential rain meant that everybody and their dog hit the small high street, never could the organic coffee shops, the hospice charity shop, or the arty gift shops have had such through input. Before leaving today we did cycle to the Pu Pu springs, a magnificent river with small lake into which bubble gallons of pristine clear water from underground sources hence the springs. We have now hit Nelson and have 2 nights here. The surrounding area was famous for apple orchards and large quantities do still get exported from the nelson wharf, we are staying in the old customs house, from the window I can see containers waiting to be loaded onto ships. Whist having a cup of tea on the steps backing onto the perimeter fence an official came up to check the ant traps- making sure no stowaways are creeping through. NZ takes its bio security very very seriously.

tuesday

Yesterday we traveled up the peninsular to takaka partly by bus, as the route takes you up 800 meters and has more bends than any other route in nz, not advised for cycling! Aim was to spend today cycling to farewell cape and back, to Takaka for night. - but-
"The remains of tropical cyclones Vania and Zelia will combine with a Tasman sea depression to produce a rain-making system likely to produce 150 millimeters of rain across much of Nelson and Marlborough from this morning until midnight"

Fated not to reach tips of islands tomorrow have to work our way to Nelson and back to Picton as it is Keith's last week.

sunday 15th jan.

Just returned from traversing able Tasman national park coast. First day by sea kayak with instructor, rest of group all Germans! went into some very choppy water, then camped at bay. Second day on our own progressing around to next camp sight, began well calm voyage around sandy bays, bit of trepidation as we went around foul point but managed to negotiate the rocks well. however, into next section north came the wind from the north west, very strong pushing us right however hard we paddled and steered left, but in true spirit we conquered the course and made it to bay as planned. next day walk and water taxi back. keith even quite enjoyed the camping and cooked our meals on the camping stove, as a treat now spending night in cabin. heading up towards farewell spit tomorrow.

wed 11th jan

Cyled over 68 miles from nelson lake area to able tasman national park yesterday. the cycle rides just get better! anyway today is a rest day, have been swimming in the saltwater baths, and eating. Keith brought some very NZ shorts for wearing in the evenings early in the trip and they are now falling off him do he needs feeding up. Tomorrow we head to Marahue and are taking a three day kayak trip up the national park peninsular, this will be an organised trip, but involves camping!

monday 10th jan

yesterday had a great 60 mile cycle from Renwick up the Waiau valley and across a small pass to St Arnaud a walking area but we also passed a ski area, wind behind us so great. Today we have climbed mount Robert, and are living frugally as the prices in the one shop are astronomical. The D.O.C. camp sight which was very small was full so staying in a hostel room in a motel, very good kitchen sitting room etc., keith is delighted!, personally I am quite happy camping.

sat. 8th jan.

left Napier yesterday, had been kept awake at night by the seals in the marine park opposite barking, i think they were lonely, the park was shut because the performing dolphin had died and well can not be replaced!. traveled by bus to wellington with no problems and arrived at the ferry terminal for the trip across the cook straights, got a ferry straight away as it was running late. i have never seen so much cargo being loaded train tracks entered the boat (cycle went on the train deck so got a good view). Spectacular entrance to south island along queen charlotte sound, camped at midgy sight last night and cycled to renwick today. bought cherries onions, spinach along way plum tree above tent tonight, avoided buying apricots nectarines and peaches as could not carry them. Also prevented keith buying 35 dollar bottle of wine after a tasting at one of the many vine yards we have passed (7 dollar bottle from shop instead) also visited agricultural machinery museum and saw hundreds of old tractors.

pics

Thurs 6 Jan

Still in Napier. Loving it,





As requested, Here are some photos..................

wed. 5th jan

have now left gisburn with its streets named after British prime ministers, and arrived in Napier by bus. have now learnt that we have to take out the seat , fold down the handle bars ,put the labels on and have the bunjees ready for securing to the side. Napier lovely art deco city very relaxed feel will be here for 2 nights, staying in yha hostel looking out at sea and 5 mins walk from centre of town.

29th dec until 3rd jan 2011

Happy new year, as at the time we where ar te Araura on the east most point on nz we were the first people to see in 2011. We have cycled nearly 400 miles since leaving roturoa and been traveling around the remote east cape. This area has a high Marae population, and as you cycle along you pass horses tethered to gates, boys swimming in the very wide rivers, and jumping from the long narrow wooden bridges. We have been passing marae meeting houses with ornate carvings,and camping at night.
As we cycled we moved from the camps dedicated to nz boat and fishing fanatics with their signs in the camp kitchens telling you not to store beer in the fridge, (they did however always present us with a cold beer on arrival in camp) to the quieter areas were you could cycle (i measured it) 29 miles without passing a shop or cafe of any description. We missed the roadside stalls selling fruit, but now that we have arrived in gisbourne have picked them up again.
On the road are several people cycling including one Australian guy who reminds me of john (brother) his cycle he found and repaired, his clothes are 1970s and he works as a horticulurlist running his own company but always takes home fruit and veg supplies from his clients (
He was horrified to find an empty orange juice carton in the bin of one client for whom he had planted an orange grove),. Also cycling at a slow but steady pace are a German couple with a 2 year old in a tag along. Now I do not want to make you think that this means the terrain was easy, there have been some mighty big hills, plus today it has been over 32 degrees.
We have also passed the southern hemispheres longest Pier built in the early 1900"s to accommodate ships transporting grain. Visited a vineyard run by a Yorkshire man through we only met his wife, with whom i had a long discussion about the best way to cook the hare she had just been given. anyway we are now in gisburne but unable to get our bikes on a bus south until wed, but with this heat a rest day will be very pleasant.