monday 28th feb.

Yesterday went to Oamaru for the day, via the backpacker bus thank goodness i have been cycling could not cope with that type of travel for long. Anyway oamaru, was a major port handling exports of grain and wool, the old limestone wharf buildings and warehouses still remain. Like many places in nz it began life as a rowdy, drinking wild west sort of place, became very upmarket as money poured in. in this case with some grand stone neo classical architecture, plus a vary large limestone catholic basilica, then fell upon hard times, (and the temperance movement). Now it attracts tourists, on Sunday there was a classic motorbike rally.
I have been staying for the last two nights in the Dunedin yha quite an imposing building, with a gabled roof balconies and a roof terrace. it was designed by Basil Hooper who helped construct the Dunedin cathedral, and used to be a private hospital (had an operating theatre).
My plane to Auckland leaves this afternoon, and then through to Hong Kong. i have loved New Zealand. the cycling has been great, not to many problems with traffic and i have met some great people. The libraries are second to none, even the smallest place has a better stocked library than inverness. Even large villages have swimming pools, many attached to the primary school (kirkhill if in nz would certainly have one), the campsites are normally good and have kitchens attached. The home baking is excellent (my favorite the dark chocolate and boysenberry slab i got at the Dunedin farmers market), and the people are friendly and can not do enough to help you. The countryside is beautiful, and the weather temperamental. I have so many more places I could cycle. have cycled over 2200 miles (never made the 3000), so hopefully Keith and I will return in the future.
Thank you to everybody in New Zealand.

sat. 26th feb.

have just spent two days on the otargo peninsular. camping in an official campsite - had to get there by bus. Visited the aquarium, did you know that octopus can get through cracks the size of their eye?. There are a lot of deep canyons off the coast. Then in afternoon went for a walk, or as they call it in nz tramping. Walked over to the other side of the peninsular, around a lagoon, up a hill to a sea lookout point - then 40Min's down through sand dunes to sandfly bay (in other words a lot further than i had intended). However by the time i reached the bay it was after 6pm and penguins were returning home- this time to a sandy shore they made their way right up into the sand dunes. there were also a family of sea lions. Returned up beach by easier and more formal route only to meet anne-marie and the Irishman (whose name i can not spell) coming down laden with their cooking gear - including stove made from old coca cola tin, after that they were in for a bit of illicit wild camping!(now very much an item).(added 28th feb -now not an item met a dejected Irishman in the wholefood shop stocking up on supplies before heading up to Alexandria to pick apples with no Ann-marie) I looked pitiful at the car park and got a lift back to my campsite and hot shower.
Yesterday went up to the nature reserve at the top of the peninsular home of an albatross colony - saw some big birds! have now returned to Dunedin, and visited the farmers market. Dunedin is a very vibrant city the university had recently restarted for the year and the place feels very alive. However i also have sandfly bites all down my legs - did not notice them at the time but walking down through dunes with bare legs to a place called sandfly bay? - only myself to blame.

wed. 23rd

the news on the earthquake just gets worse, the whole country is devastated.not sure what will happen in Christchurch as more aftershocks are still expected. Anyway am south in Dunedin, very fortunately.Just been swimming in the outdoor heated saltwater baths.

tues. 22nd feb.

Raining all day, have spent day sorting out bike, it is going home ahead of me, this makes life much simpler for getting home. Will have to visit otago peninsular by bus, but will be saved the challenge of cycling up Baldwin street, the worlds steepest street.
Not a good day there has been a very large earthquake in Christchurch today, with fatalities and much damage - felt it down here in Dunedin things fell off the table - a kind of experience for me but very unpleasant for those whose homes have been damaged further north.

monday 21. feb.

Have spent the last 2 days camping at Kaka point, about 8 kms from nugget head - still in the catlins. yesterday was sea lion day, in fact i nearly stood on a sea lion on my way down to the beach - not a good idea- sea lions are large can be aggressive and definitely (understandably) do not like to be disturbed when taking a nap. I beat a hasty retreat. walked to nugget head lighthouse and looked down from a safe distance a sea lions in the bay below, also saw fur seals.
today stated heading east to Dunedin, but it has been raining very hard, so I hardly stopped, thus arrived a day early. am staying in yha. have to organise the packing up of my bike so will be here for a couple of days and will then go to the otago peninsular for a couple of days before my flight next Monday.
Dunedin is the Edinburgh of the south so a fitting place to fly back from, i cycled down Princes street to get here, but will explore more tomorrow.

sat.

Yesterday visited cathedral caves, short walk to tidal beach through forest, did not explore caves much as did not want to disturb the penguins in the back. then through Papatowai visiting the "Gypsy caravan" sight of toys/mechanical devices/ gadgets, made from old electrical equipment and old shells driftwood. then on to Owaka were I camped - keep meeting people i have met before this time anne and nick who I had been on an evening walk on Stewart island with. today have had to make detour to Balclutha to get cash and food supplies. will now head back to nugget point for 2 night camping and exploring before making my way to Dunedin.

thursday 16th feb

on Tuesday left Stewart island cycled out of bluff with the spam works on my left and and agricultural nutrients factory to my right, however was shown a short cut east by wolfgang (Germans always have the best maps, his 6th time cycling in nz.) So through very quite agriculual land to Fortrose gateway to the catlins which I am now exploring. This Fortrose had about 4 houses and a cafe/visitor centre, however about 8 years ago a nz girl from the village visited black isle fortrose on her travels, and met then married a local farmer -always a connection.
68 miles to Curio bay were I have spent 2 fantastic nights camping. A very basic campsite, but you have a hard choice to choose a sight, on one side you face the sea lions and on the other the rare yellow eyed penguins. Anne-marie and I chose the latter, and spent 2 evenings watching them arrive home from the sea, make their way up the beach, greet each other with barking noise, and get pestered by seagulls. this also the sight of the petrified forest visible at low tide- awesome. (first met anne-marie in wanka cycling\walking comes from north carolina ran into her again at fortrose)
Yesterday cycled short distance to slope point most southerly in nz and had a picnic made all the better by the salad cillon from Ireland rustled up from the contents of his cycle panniers today short cycle, working way east after morning on beach.